| Good cleats or  other means to secure a boat to an anchor or the harbor wall is paramount. More  boats are lost at anchor or in ports than on the sea. You can, of course,  screw/bolt your cleats to the deck and hope for the best, but today we have  materials to make cleats an integral part of a boat. In this article, I will  show you how to do this.  The example  shown is from my friend Andrew from Tasmania. Good mooring cleats are a vital  part of any boat.  On our Pelican we use a  Samson post.  Believe me it is a good  feeling knowing the thing is strong enough to hold your boat in a stormy night. 
              
                | 
 | The Samson post on our PELICAN. |  From the  post a rope goes to a truck tire which is used as a shock absorber. From there  two ropes go to heavy snatch blocks on each side and from there to an even heavier  swivel. The anchor chain/rope goes from there to the anchor or mooring. Is this  overdoing it? No, when you see the tire flattened by the pull of the boat in a  storm and you are in the same place you know you did everything right. But this is a  different story. Lets begin to make our own cleats. First a picture of a  finished cleat. The cleat as shown is a part of the boat. It’s what I call an  “organic” solution. 
              
                |  | Transom cleat |   The sketch below shows  the base for the cleats. The cleat  dimensions shown are good for boats up to about 30 ft. Depending on the size of  the boat and its weight, you may have to scale up or down.  For a ground plate, use Melanine, PVC or  similar to which Epoxy does not stick to make the base part. The diameter of  your stainless steel tube determines the diameter of the glass tube, which  determines the width of the wood. The length of the wood depends on the  necessary length of the clew part multiplied by the number you will make. Glue the glass  tube to the wood. Apply fillets as shown. Now place the wood on the nonstick  surface and build up the fiber glass layers. Minimum about 8mm.              Trim after curing  and cut as many pieces as you need. Length in this case 40mm. Make a template to  mark the positions of the cleats on the boat. 
              
                |  | Template |  Make plywood base  plates or doublers. The shape will differ and depend on your boat and where the  cleats are placed. 
              
                |  | Base plate |  This base plate is  for the transom. The base is  somewhat different for the bows. Beef up the deck where the cleats will be  situated. 
              
                |  | Example aft deck |  Now look at the  next two sketches. They show the layup and arrangement to mount the cleat to  the boat. Sketch 3 shows the side view. Use a release agent on the stainless  steel so it cannot stick.  Sketch 4 is the  view front to back and shows the installation. Be aware that the cleat pieces  are pushed through the deck. 
              
                | 
 Sketch 3 |  
              
                |  | Note how the glass is staggered for stress  relief. Sketch 4 |  
              
                |  | Cleat at the transom area with backing  plate |  
              
                |  | Recess for mounting the aft deck |  When the decks are  glassed over, fair the cleats to your taste. After painting, glue the stainless  rods to the cleats. The results are shown in the next pictures. These cleats  not only look great but are the strongest you can make. 
              
                |  | Starboard cleat transom |  
              
                |  | Bow cleat |  Bernd Kohler  https://www.ikarus342000.com/CATpage.htm   |