| Last  winter, as the cold finally settled over North Texas, I found myself once again  looking at boat plans.  My previous build  was a Welsford Truant, which uses longitudinal stringers to define the chines  and serve as a base for gluing the hull panels.   This time I wanted to try my hand at stitch-and-glue, or taped seam  construction.  Further, I wanted a rowing  boat that was light and easily transportable.   It had to fit into the bed of my truck.   I went with Jim Michalak’s WeeVee.   WeeVee’s  small project size was appealing since I would be conducting self-directed  OJT…without doubt involving some trial-and-error.  For materials I chose very inexpensive 5mm  Luan plywood and some leftover Douglas fir lumber.  I also threw in some mahogany scrap bits here  and there, and used a strong piece of oak for the tiler.  My plan was to varnish the wales and inside  of the boat, and paint the hull.   Overall, I wanted to keep the build enjoyable while learning a new  construction method. Tracing  and cutting the Luan panels took all of about 2 hours, and since there were no  scarf/butt joints, I was ready to cut and glue the transom support “sticks,” as  Michalak calls them.  This was a lot  of fun because Santa had managed to fit a new table saw down the chimney, and I  was itching to try it out.   Once  the transoms had been built up, the side panels bent easily around the  temporary form and spreader pieces.  The  bevel angles provided in the plans made attaching the sides to the transoms a  snap, and after these initial joins I got my first glimpse of the little boat’s  lines.  I used a long 1x2 batten to keep  everything straight, and “eyeballed” the horizontals of the transoms and  formers to keep it all level. Tightbond  III was used for gluing where a good wood-wood surface was available…yet  another nod to simplicity and thrift! 
              
                |  | WeeVee sides on, from bow |  There  is no internal support structure to WeeVee, and the designer mentions that its  strength comes from the curve of the hull panels and a robust perimeter.  The plans call for a wide, I-beam like  “flange wale” that provides both stiffness and strength.  However, in keeping with the “learn by doing”  theme of this build, I decided to instead use a traditional dual wale  setup.  I did this mainly because I read  about a technique for cutting and trimming in-wales to a nice snug fit at the  transom ends, and I wanted to try it out.  Plus, a double wale with spacers looks really  salty. 
              
                |  | WeeVee Hull with outwales |  I  first attached the outer wales along the top of the side panels.  Keeping the boat true was a bear, and a few  choice words were used during the wrestling match. The difficulty came because the fir wales  were stiff (I ripped them to 1 3/4” x 1/2”), and the structure at this point  was extremely “wobbly”.  I have no doubt  that following  Michalak’s flange wale design would have been much easier  since it is really a lamination of smaller pieces built-up into a strong  finale. Anyway, I managed to get it all  together. 
              
                |  | WeeVee inwales on |  The  stitch-and-glue part followed, and was remarkably simple.  I referenced Jim’s book Boatbuilding for  Beginners (And Beyond), which goes into great detail about taped-seam construction,  and had seen Warren Messer’s Red Barn Boats YouTube videos as well.  Creating the curved V shape with the bottom  panels was especially cool.  The panels  are laid face together and stitched along the bottom seam, then opened up like  butterfly wings.  When spread open, the  stitched edge forces the panels into an arching V, which then fits perfectly against  the V shape of the transoms and temporary form.   Really neat!  I used a tube of Gel  Magic thickened epoxy to set the seams, removed the wire stitches, then applied  3” fiberglass tape set in epoxy. I sheathed  the hull’s exterior with 6oz. fiberglass cloth, again set in epoxy. This added time and expense, but in the end I  don’t worry about the strength of the Luan or storing the boat outside.  I designed-in a little flair by shaping the  knees and bow cross piece, and by using spare bronze screws where visible. 
              
                |  | WeeVee hull glassed |  After  the hull was glassed, I plopped the WeeVee in the pool and clambered aboard.  The inertia of simply getting in the boat  sent her gliding across the surface, which hinted at the slippery speed of her  V hull.  To the great amusement of my  wiener dog Max, I flailed about trying to establish a good balanced location  for the thwart. The plans provide sail  rig specifications, but I intend to use this boat as a one-man exercise machine  exclusively. 
              
                |  | WeeVee balance test |  The  oars were made from 8’ clear pine 1x6 boards, which were soft and very easy to  work. They are light, plenty strong,  look nice varnished, and superbly balanced. I went with a 7’ length, and  followed the detailed instructions in Jim’s book. Also, I fixed the oarlocks in place with pins  that run through the oars. I get a  better rowing experience and better control with fixed oarlocks. This is entirely a personal preference. 
              
                |  | WeeVee oars |  I’m  happy to report that WeeVee lives up to all of my expectations and more.  At about 40lbs., I can easily lift her into  my truck bed and go.   The long, slim oar  blades move her along at a nice clip, and the extra mass in the square looms  reduces the lifting weight of each stroke.   The deep V bottom slices through smooth water with astonishing speed for  a short boat, and she tracks well ahead.   Stability isn’t really a problem with one’s weight on-center, the trickiest  part being climbing  in and out.  I recently went rowing in a good 12-18 knot  blow.  WeeVee bobbed over the small  waves, and was only a bit more squirrely with quartering swells.  She’s a really sporty little boat to row. 
              
                |  | WeeVee afloat |  
              
                |  | WeeVee rowing |  
              
                |  | WeeVee slices through the surface |  
              
                |  | WeeVee rowing bow on |  
              
                |  | WeeVee side view |  All  said, the project cost about $250, and took about 75 hours to complete (oars  included). I use the boat a lot because of the ease of getting it to the lake, I  enjoyed the fun build, and learned a few things along the way. 
              
                |  | WeeVee on dock |  PS,  I put in a little stern seat for Max, however, after watching me flail, and  given his advanced years, he’ll have no part of it! 
              
                |  | Max in WeeVee |  |